We spent 5 days in Iceland in July 2020 ( post lockdown), at this time of year it would usually be the peak of the tourist season, luckily for us it wasn’t busy so this is what we did, we hired a car at the airport and off to explore the land of fire and ice .
Hallgrimskyrkja
Probably one of the iconic and most recognised buildings in Reykjavik is Hallgrimskyrkja, sat on top of a hill overlooking the city. The church construction started in 1945 and was finished in 1986 and is 74.5 metres in height. The church was designed by architect Guðjón Samúelsson to honor the saint and poet Hallgrímur Pétursson. This church is the tallest in all of Iceland and one of the tallest buildings as well. There is an elevator inside the church to get great views from, tickets can be purchased from the church shop. To enter the church is free and you can see the pipe organ which towers 50 feet tall and is made from 5,275 pipes, which was installed in December 1992.
Sun Voyager
On the waterfront in Reykjavik, stands a sculpture that reminds us of a viking long ship, called ‘Sun Voyager’ or ‘Solfar ‘ made from steel that looks iridescent in the changing light of the surroundings. Sun Voyager – symbolises the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. Solfar/Sun Voyager is a dreamboat. The structure is on granite base and made of stainless steel.
Harpa Concert Hall
A great stroll from the left if facing Solfar, brings you fresh air and to a stunning glass building which is the Harpa concert hall, the light bounces of the coloured glass panelling showing different colours with the light bouncing off it. There is a water feature in front of the building which also makes the light and building surrounds fall naturally into its Icelandic heritage with a modern twist. If you go into the building straight through to the back some views of the harbour can be taken in or just to sit and reflect in your surroundings.
Reykjavik City Centre
Just a wander round, to get a feel for the capital of Iceland, lots of shops offering all different kinds of items. You can tell this is a tourist capital due to the number of souvenir shops selling all sorts gifts and memorabilia from trolls, vikings and puffins etc. Along with the abundance of eateries and coloured residences was some even more colourful street art. Finished with fish and chips and a couple of Gull lagers at Reykjavik Fish Restaurant, well worth a visit.
Seljalandsfoss
We were driving Route 1 to Diamond Beach and we saw this in the distance, so as we got closer we could see an area and a campsite to pull in. This was our first waterfall experience and what a cracking place to start. Seljalandsfoss drops 200 feet to the pool below and you can walk behind it as well. You can feel the force of the water pounding down. In this area are a few waterfalls gushing over the cliff range. This cliff used to be the coastline but now extends into lowlands before meeting the sea. Apparently there is a hidden gem in this area if you continue north to the waterfall Gljúfrabúi, which is found partially hidden behind a rock face. Because of Seljalandsfoss extreme popularity, Gljúfrabúi is widely overlooked.
Little Foss
We were driving along route 1 and saw this ahead and pulled in the layby. It was like a natural service station for the soul. We satt and listened to the force of the water, taking in the fresh air and chilled. We tried to find if this place had a name, however if your driving towards Diamond Beach these are the coordinates 63.852,-17.839 . Well worth a stop!!
Skeidara Bridge Monument
Below shows the remains of a bridge that previously crossed the Skeidararsandur. In 1996, Vatnajokull volcano erupted, with the force of the volcano heat and flooding it destroyed the bridge. It is said that icebergs the size of houses crashed into the bridge, shows the true power of nature. The site is just off the road with parking, information boards detailing the site and event. Once the longest bridge in Iceland, Skeidararbru.
Snow glacier
This is just noted as point of interest, you will see it from different angles as you travel along the ring road. This is the point we took this photo from.
63.976,-16.992
Diamond Beach
What was it Marilyn Monroe sang ‘diamonds are a girl best friend’ . If like us you had never seen an iceberg (in real life), this is it , for us it was like Christmas, literally floating down the river out to the open sea. Some had come ashore and standing next to them ( and they are small in comparison to some) you could definitely see how these large lumps of ice could cause so much destruction. The contrast of the black sand, the white of ice and the blue of the ocean ..wow. We would recommend checking this area out. It’s a 4.5 hour drive from Reykjavik so it’s a long day especially when you see things and just stop.
Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon
And you thought Diamond Beach was the best thing ever ! Well this lagoon is amazing too! If like us you don’t speak Icelandic Jokulsarlon means glacial river lagoon. You need to jump back in your car, go across the bridge and the car park is on the left. When we driving up to Diamond Beach I thought i got a glimpse of the lagoon but I thought I was seeing things as it was there as quickly as gone. The lagoon is in the southern end of the Vatnajokull National Park.
Black Sand Beach
Also known as Reynisfjara Beach, is Icelands most famous black sand beach. Black sand is made when volcanic hot lava immerses into the cold ocean, it instantly cools which breaks down into sand eventually. The black coloured sand against the blue of the Atlantic Ocean, what a sight.
Reynisdrangar are the rock formations situated near the black beach (below) . The formation was featured in Game of Thrones as season 7 at eastwatch by the sea. The waves were crashing further along the beach and you can tell how fierce they are the shapes cutting out of the cliffs. The rock formations are 217 feet jutting out if the sea which make for a dramatic landscape. There is a legend that goes with this , that the needles were formed when two trolls were trying to drag a three masted ship to land. When daylight broke they were turned to stone.
Basalt Columns
Now this is a sight to see. This, again will bring Game of Thrones to the forefront of your mind.
So when the lava cools to form basalt, it can crack in a hexagon or form columns, so we get these amazing formations. Just another one of the spectacular landscapes.
Dyrholaey
120 metres high and can be seen for quite a way along the coast . Dyrholaey literally means door hole and when you look at the below photo you will see why. Dyrholaey has been a nature reserve since 1978 . We didnt actually get to the site but from black sand beach you can get some cracking shots
Skogafoss
With a drop of 60 metres and a width of 25 metres, this is probably the 2nd most favourited waterfall in Iceland after Gullfoss. The waterfall is on the Skoga River in the south of Iceland. When you approach you hear the roar showing the power of the water, you don’t even have to be that close to feel the spray. We did witness some adults go into the water at the side, with the shrieks that followed it must have been cold. There is also a stairway up the side of the waterfall to a view platform to overlook the fall.
At this site there is a motorhome site as well. There are lots of waterfalls to view in Iceland, you will see them as you travel the roads, don’t get waterfalled out, this is one to put on the list. Again a famous spot for Games of Thrones.
Thingvellir National Park
So the national park is under an hour’s drive from Reykjavik. You could spend all day wandering these national parks in awe of their beautiful landscapes and history. So we have picked out a few things we enjoyed. The picture below was taken on our way there. There are plenty of laybys you can stop at to capture the fabulous countryside. One thing to note is the park is free, however you need to pay to park your car at the park entrance.
Almannagia
This is the first thing we came too, (well after the tourist centre and loo with a view, that’s another story). There is a bridge/ramp to go down and it divided the north American and Eurasian tectonic plates – The Pingvellir Faults.
Pretty cool I’m sure you will agree.
Drekingarhylur
(The drowning pool )
Whilst it looks most beautiful and with other travellers sitting around casually taking in the views and atmosphere. History/legend tells of Pingvellir women being drowned here – tied in a sack pushed into the pool and held under.
Oxararfoss
Now this is a place to take a moment or 10, this waterfall is one of the main attractions of the Pingvellir National Park. Foss means waterfall in Icelandic and oxi means axe. In the settlement period of Icelands history, it’s told that some settlers found a frozen river, they dug a hole in the ice and put an axe in it to claim the land. Love a legend and they are plenty in Iceland. We stayed here for a while langishing in the sounds and clean air.
Dead Man’s Walk /Langistigur
Whilst this place has historic and geological significance, we must say our hearts take us back to GOT fandom. The narrow pathway was used to film the entrance to the Eyrie.
Thingvellir Church and Prime Minster summerhouse
The church was built in 1859 and the tower was added In 1907 and the houses was built in 1930, after a fire the 1970s an extra 2 were built. We didnt go and visit just admired from afar.
Geysir
On the famous route of the golden circle,( which you can pick up a tour for, or be a free spirit and go when and where you want like us). Strokkur erupts every 4-10 minutes where the thermal water rises through channels about 100 ft into the air. At this site they also have boiling mud pits along with the exhibition centre .
Gullfoss
Previously mentioned this waterfall, this is the number 1 waterfall in Iceland. How the waterfall got it’s name, has several different stories one is to do with the golden hue that often shines in it’s glacial water, the other is that a farmer who had plenty of gold and didn’t want anyone else to possess it after he died, so he threw it into the waterfall and so it was named Gullfoss. There is often a rainbow in the falls ( maybe that’s where the saying pot of gold at the end of the rainbow comes from ). This is a must see again as with most waterfall prepare to get damp. If you look closely under the rainbow you can see people having a closer look from a viewing platform.
Secret Lagoon
We wanted to try a natural hot spring and have a true Icelandic experience, the water was around 38 degrees Celsius. This was a really relaxing experience. We were told that the Icelandic people use these places as hangouts and to meet friends, rather like when we go to the pub. What a great idea !! There were also little attractions dotted around on a walking path around the pool like hot springs. It was a truly relaxing time.
Kerid Crater
At 3000 years old the volcanic crater lake is a sight, we got to this late afternoon in July. The lake was formed from an empty magma that depleted itself. The amazing colours of the blue/green lake and the red volcanic rock definitely make it a spectacular sight. (Suggestion would be not to wear white trainers, as when I came out mine were splattered) . There is a path in steps to lead you down to the lake. Google map coordinates 64.042,-20.884
The Bridge between Two Continents
Ok so we mentioned one in Thingvellir and this is another. This is on the Reykjanes peninsula and this lies on one of the major plate boundaries, the mid Atlantic ridge , ( we will talk more about that soon) . So you can be on the North American tectonic plate cross the bridge and be on the Eurasian tectonic plate, which is pretty cool, then you can go round and been in the middle of the two. There are information boards on both sides to give an overview of their movement apart and other interesting points. The photo doesn’t look extremely interesting, it was good fun. At Google map coordinates 63.868,-22.676
Brimketill Troll Pool
I know this sounds weird, but hey we are on an adventure. Of course,with such a title, there is a legend attached. The troll Oddny bathed and washed her clothes in the pool on a regular basis. I’m sure there is more story than this. However, it’s local name is Oddnyjarlaug. It’s a tourist spot with info boards and a car park however its not well signposted. Brimketill is made out of lava rock, the landscape in this area of Reykjanes peninsula is black lava cone shaped peaks and even thats worth a visit , it’s like you’re on another world. there are a couple of pools to see.Google maps coordinates 63.819,- 22.606
Valahnukur Mountains
The mountain is composed of tuff layers, pillow lava and breccia. There is a whole area here with dedicated information boards, giving definitions to what the mountain is composed of . The coast line which has been crafted by the brute force of the ocean. Great for a photo opportunities.
Mid Atlantic Ridge
The ridge marks the boundary of two tectonic plates ( as previously mentioned) they are drifting in opposite directions . It is part of the mid ocean ridge system which 75,000 long winding all over the earth, which is the single largest geological feature. Nowhere else I the world can you stand on the ridge and see the land rise out of the sea . And yes you could see it too if you follow in our footsteps
Reykjanes lighthouse
The carpark is just by the lighthouse to view this and the two sites above. If you haven’t got a four wheel drive then, I would definitely walk the rest of the way. It takes about 15 minutes but as you can see its definitely worth it. The lighthouse is the oldest in Iceland and was lit on 20th march 1908. It has. 9 metre diameter at the bottom rising to a 5 metre diameter at the top and is 20 metres in height.
Cafe Bryggja
Located in Grindavik, and on the quayside of the harbour, is where we had our lunch. You can imagine all the fisherman stopping here after their work was over or starting.
We had heard of this place, so you have to sample while you are there. Lobster soup would recommend it .
Blue Lagoon
A trip to Iceland would be complete without a visit here. Home to one of the 25 wonders of the world. It is an experience, a unique geothermal experience. The milky blue water with a back drop of the black volcano rock makes it magical looking. It’s well organised, clean. We bought the cheaper ticket of the two which gets you a towel, a drink and a face mask included. We enjoyed it. Relaxing in the afternoon sun in the bath like temperature of the water so good to unwind. We get asked – is it worth it? Is it expensive ? It all depends on you ! Yes maybe it’s a bit indulgent, is it once in a lfietiken, hopefully not but maybe, how do you out a price on an experience. When going into the pool use conditioner and leave it in your hair. There is a high silca content in the water which make your hair go hard. There is a shop, restaurant also here.
Reykjavik Harbour
Thought we would take a wander arouj d the harbour, before the next part of our adventure. There are lots of boutique shops and quirky items to buy in little chalet type buildings. All types of boats coming and going. We stopped for lunch at burger place as you enter the harbour named Hamborgarabulla Tomasar.
Elding Whale Watching excursion
The only excursion we had to do ! To see these wonderful mammals In their natural habitat. We went up to the top at the front. However when the whale sightings happened everyone else seemed to flock here and stood up blocking the view. Luckily we did get to see some minke whales and a humpback. This company have a great team including a marine biologist on board giving you a narrative about the area and the sealife.
Omnom Chocolate Factory
Normally you can go and get a factory tour , see how the chocolate is made. However at the time we went they were having construction done. We visited the outside and found some chocolate of all different varieties in a supermarket. If we went again, we would make a point of going here, so have listed it so you don’t miss out.
Pufa
When you are in the harbour you will see the Pufa, you can get to it and spiral up a path in the green mound which is 8 metres up and made from 4500 tons of gravel.the path upwards leads to a little hut which is used to make dried fish. It is the largest artwork installation in Iceland.
Best hot dogs – we went to Baejarins Beztu Pylsur
Just one of the many amazing views
